Tuesday 4 February 2014

Adios, Mi Amigo - Farewell, My Friend

           This will be my last post, so let me share a few more memories. Mexico was as wonderful as we had hoped it would be, with enough opportunities to both relax and explore. It was a perfect location for our second honeymoon. Also, it was not without surprises.                      
            I hadn’t expected to see so much wildlife on the resort. Neither had I realized how highly the Mexicans value conservation. We saw dozens of iguanas lazing in the sun, most around 18” in length. The only time I saw one move quickly (Okay, move at all) was the one stalking its prey at the beach, but none of them acted aggressively towards us. I was grateful that the only fast-as-lightning reptiles were the tiny geckos.
            Another common animal on the resort is the agouti. The first time we saw one, it was from the rear, so we mistook it for a kind of pig. Actually it’s kind of a cute rodent, like a large Guinea pig but with longer legs. They move slowly until they trot out of view.
            A few times we saw a racoon or two, but mostly in the evening. Their cousins, the coatimundis, were a little more visible. One day we saw one trying to get past a cat on a narrow ledge. It was funny because the larger coati obviously didn’t want to get too close to the feline. It kept vacillating, as though it was trying to talk itself into taking a dare. Eventually it turned around and left, possibly remembering an earlier encounter with the smug puss, who just sat there licking its paws.
            Tropical birdcalls are intriguing, but we heard these creatures more than we ever saw them. Actually, we had the greatest opportunities to view the birds while in the buffet. The dining rooms are walled entirely with windows, some of which are kept open (If you're feeling warm, grab a table beside a window and you'll catch a lovely breeze). The birds would occasionally fly in and out. Once we saw a blackbird swoop onto a recently-vacated table, snatch a slice of bread and then fly off. This would never “fly” with our public health officials in Canada, but it was entertaining.
            One form of animal life that I was surprised, but grateful, not to encounter was insects. I only saw one fly during our first week, and then only a few tiny ones afterwards. Bugs were not an issue at all, and the absence of mosquitoes was a huge relief.
            The only time we saw sea turtles was on our two excursions. They must frequent the resort at some time, because there were turtle nests in several places, cordoned off with signs. If you researched it, I’m sure you could manage to see the baby turtles hatch and scuttle into the ocean. 
            Shopping at the resort was a lot of fun. The Gran Bahia has its own market, La Hacienda, just inside the entrance, a ten minute walk from our lobby. As soon as I stopped at a stall, I was often called amiga, their new friend. Some of this was part of the shtick that accompanies markets in any country, but we encountered the same friendliness from other Mexicans who had nothing to sell us. So don't let yourself get too cynical.   
            There are outdoor stalls at the market and also a plaza ringed with a number of shops. Many items are not individually priced. If I asked how much something was but then started to walk away, I was almost always given a better price. If I hesitated, in order to consider the offer, an even better price often materialized. In the end, we got good deals with barely any effort. Our fellow tourists, who knew the area well, assured us that the shopping experience on the resort was as good as, if not better than, what the closest city had to offer.
            We visited Playa del Carmen one day, but not to shop. After a tussle with a stubborn contact lens, I found myself in need of an ophthalmologist, so off we went. Instead of taking a taxi, we made the 50-minute trip in a colectivo, the local public transit. Colectivos are minivans that you can catch at designated bus stops along the highway. For 3 or 4 dollars each, depending on the driver, you get an air-conditioned ride. A taxi would probably cost $25. Try it!
            Rest assured that excellent medical care is available in Mexico, but you may have to track it down. We had to visit two medical facilities, with a short walk in between. The first clinic charged us the grand sum of one American cent for a cursory exam and for making an appointment with a specialist. They directed us to walk until we got to a restaurant called “Beeps.” I had to laugh when I saw the sign and realized that “Beeps” in Mexico is spelled VIPS. Go figure.  
            On our return trip, I wore an eye patch, so our driver literally went out of his way to take me across the highway, and drove us right to the entrance of our resort. Keep in mind that this was even before he knew he was getting a tip.  
            Both our excursions were terrific. Both included a trip to a cenote, a cave where you can access the underground water system. While we snorkelled in one of them, we saw some scuba divers passing through. Our guide told us that the Mayans use the cenotes as a source of drinking water, but also regard them as sacred places. Hats off to them. I would let people into my holy place, but I sure wouldn’t let anyone swim in my drinking water!
            Well, I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about my experience at the Gran Bahia, while having a few of your questions answered about what to expect. It feels like a great place to go no matter what kind of vacation you’re looking for, from an exotic wedding destination or honeymoon to a romantic getaway or somewhere the entire family will enjoy. 
           Would we return to Mexico, and specifically to the Gran Bahia Principe? Without hesitation. Wherever you go, vaya con Dios. Thanks for stopping by.



Vamos a comer – Let’s Go Eat!


           
            I read so many contradicting Trip Advisor reviews of the Gran Bahia’s food. You know, they say that there’s no accounting for taste. Even so, if you can’t find any food you like at this resort, then you must be one picky Chiquita.
            The buffet serving area alone is as large as a restaurant. I can only list a fraction of the food that was available. If you prefer to eat restaurant food that you’re already familiar with, you’ll be happy with the daily offerings of pizza, pasta, and fries. There’s a section just for kids that provides hot dogs, grilled cheese or PBJ sandwiches and Kraft Dinner. Make yourself at home.
            One thing I should mention is that the labels accompanying each dish were not always well-translated. Or else they had been placed over the wrong food. My mothering instincts urged me to go around and put everything in its proper place, but I resisted. Why spoil the fun for everyone else? The funniest one was presented as “crushed grains.” Translation: oatmeal. There’s nothing quite like tropical oatmeal made with plenty of honey, cinnamon and vanilla. The texture is soupy, but not terrible. If you’re health conscious, it provided the only source of whole grains that I can remember.
            Darling Hubby and I are on the adventurous side. At first, we were overwhelmed by the possibilities. After a day or two, we gravitated to certain sections of the buffet. I love fresh seafood and discovered a new favourite: Grouper! Who knew that those large, ugly fish would clean up so well?
            Let’s see if I can remember all the different sections from the buffet: Japanese, Mexican, vegetarian, an entire counter of assorted bread and rolls, soup (both hot and cold), salad, omelettes to order, desserts, fruit drinks…Nope, I can’t. But you get the picture. How about if I just mention some of our favourites?
            We loved the cold drinks. They had papaya, pineapple, mango and melon water. I have no idea how they made these beverages, which were tasty and refreshing without being at all sugary. For breakfast they had pitchers of “milkshakes”, which were actually smoothies, but still oh so yummy.
            Most days, my meals included some authentic Mexican food: flat breads, quesadillas, beans with rice, and sauces/salsas as cool or as hot as you can handle. Mexican cheese is wonderfully smooth and creamy, so remember to look for it in the salad section.   
            If you’re there in the rainy season, you might find that it’s too humid for the salt shaker to work. Just unscrew the lid and sprinkle.
             While some buffet selections were a surprise, only two things proved to be a huge disappointment. Both the panna cotta, which I’ve only heard about on the Food Network, and the fresh melons were surprisingly bland. But don’t despair if you have a sweet tooth. There were lots of cakes, tortes, ice cream and sorbet. The pastries were presented in small portions, so you could try a selection. I was so pleased when we got home to discover that I’d only gained half a pound. Miraculous!
            Speaking of sweets, the desserts at the restaurants were excellent. We qualified for eight à la carte meals during our stay. Make your dinner reservations as soon after your arrival as possible. Ask about them when you check in. They fill up rapidly, so you might find yourself dining later than you are accustomed to eating. The food is well worth the wait.
            We met a wonderful Canadian couple at the restaurants. Paul and Sandra were a lot of fun to hang around with. They introduced us to Spanish coffee, made with cream and some sort of brandy or liqueur. What a great presentation! Our waiter performed the ritual with finesse and panache, ending with a two-tiered blazing stream that cascaded from both pitchers into the coffee cup below. Even if you’re not a coffee drinker (or not fond of alcohol, which burns off during the performance), maybe you can convince someone else at your table to order this. The show alone is worth it.
            So there you go. If you’ve been putting off a trip to Mexico because you don’t think you’ll like the food, think again. The Gran Bahia truly has something for everyone.