Adios, Mi Amigo - Farewell, My Friend

           This will be my last post, so let me share a few more memories. Mexico was as wonderful as we had hoped it would be, with enough opportunities to both relax and explore. It was a perfect location for our second honeymoon. Also, it was not without surprises.                      

            I hadn’t expected to see so much wildlife on the resort. Neither had I realized how highly the Mexicans value conservation. We saw dozens of iguanas lazing in the sun, most around 18” in length. The only time I saw one move quickly (Okay, move at all) was the one stalking its prey at the beach, but none of them acted aggressively towards us. I was grateful that the only fast-as-lightning reptiles were the tiny geckos.

            Another common animal on the resort is the agouti. The first time we saw one, it was from the rear, so we mistook it for a kind of pig. Actually it’s kind of a cute rodent, like a large Guinea pig but with longer legs. They move slowly until they trot out of view.

            A few times we saw a racoon or two, but mostly in the evening. Their cousins, the coatimundis, were a little more visible. One day we saw one trying to get past a cat on a narrow ledge. It was funny because the larger coati obviously didn’t want to get too close to the feline. It kept vacillating, as though it was trying to talk itself into taking a dare. Eventually it turned around and left, possibly remembering an earlier encounter with the smug puss, who just sat there licking its paws.

            Tropical birdcalls are intriguing, but we heard these creatures more than we ever saw them. Actually, we had the greatest opportunities to view the birds while in the buffet. The dining rooms are walled entirely with windows, some of which are kept open (If you're feeling warm, grab a table beside a window and you'll catch a lovely breeze). The birds would occasionally fly in and out. Once we saw a blackbird swoop onto a recently-vacated table, snatch a slice of bread and then fly off. This would never “fly” with our public health officials in Canada, but it was entertaining.

            One form of animal life that I was surprised, but grateful, not to encounter was insects. I only saw one fly during our first week, and then only a few tiny ones afterwards. Bugs were not an issue at all, and the absence of mosquitoes was a huge relief.

            The only time we saw sea turtles was on our two excursions. They must frequent the resort at some time, because there were turtle nests in several places, cordoned off with signs. If you researched it, I’m sure you could manage to see the baby turtles hatch and scuttle into the ocean. 

            Shopping at the resort was a lot of fun. The Gran Bahia has its own market, La Hacienda, just inside the entrance, a ten minute walk from our lobby. As soon as I stopped at a stall, I was often called amiga, their new friend. Some of this was part of the shtick that accompanies markets in any country, but we encountered the same friendliness from other Mexicans who had nothing to sell us. So don't let yourself get too cynical.   

            There are outdoor stalls at the market and also a plaza ringed with a number of shops. Many items are not individually priced. If I asked how much something was but then started to walk away, I was almost always given a better price. If I hesitated, in order to consider the offer, an even better price often materialized. In the end, we got good deals with barely any effort. Our fellow tourists, who knew the area well, assured us that the shopping experience on the resort was as good as, if not better than, what the closest city had to offer.

            We visited Playa del Carmen one day, but not to shop. After a tussle with a stubborn contact lens, I found myself in need of an ophthalmologist, so off we went. Instead of taking a taxi, we made the 50-minute trip in a colectivo, the local public transit. Colectivos are minivans that you can catch at designated bus stops along the highway. For 3 or 4 dollars each, depending on the driver, you get an air-conditioned ride. A taxi would probably cost $25. Try it!

            Rest assured that excellent medical care is available in Mexico, but you may have to track it down. We had to visit two medical facilities, with a short walk in between. The first clinic charged us the grand sum of one American cent for a cursory exam and for making an appointment with a specialist. They directed us to walk until we got to a restaurant called “Beeps.” I had to laugh when I saw the sign and realized that “Beeps” in Mexico is spelled VIPS. Go figure.  

            On our return trip, I wore an eye patch, so our driver literally went out of his way to take me across the highway, and drove us right to the entrance of our resort. Keep in mind that this was even before he knew he was getting a tip.  

            Both our excursions were terrific. Both included a trip to a cenote, a cave where you can access the underground water system. While we snorkelled in one of them, we saw some scuba divers passing through. Our guide told us that the Mayans use the cenotes as a source of drinking water, but also regard them as sacred places. Hats off to them. I would let people into my holy place, but I sure wouldn’t let anyone swim in my drinking water!

            Well, I hope you’ve enjoyed reading about my experience at the Gran Bahia, while having a few of your questions answered about what to expect. It feels like a great place to go no matter what kind of vacation you’re looking for, from an exotic wedding destination or honeymoon to a romantic getaway or somewhere the entire family will enjoy. 
           Would we return to Mexico, and specifically to the Gran Bahia Principe? Without hesitation. Wherever you go, vaya con Dios. Thanks for stopping by.

Vamos a comer – Let’s Go Eat!

           

            I read so many contradicting Trip Advisor reviews of the Gran Bahia’s food. You know, they say that there’s no accounting for taste. Even so, if you can’t find any food you like at this resort, then you must be one picky Chiquita.

            The buffet serving area alone is as large as a restaurant. I can only list a fraction of the food that was available. If you prefer to eat restaurant food that you’re already familiar with, you’ll be happy with the daily offerings of pizza, pasta, and fries. There’s a section just for kids that provides hot dogs, grilled cheese or PBJ sandwiches and Kraft Dinner. Make yourself at home.

            One thing I should mention is that the labels accompanying each dish were not always well-translated. Or else they had been placed over the wrong food. My mothering instincts urged me to go around and put everything in its proper place, but I resisted. Why spoil the fun for everyone else? The funniest one was presented as “crushed grains.” Translation: oatmeal. There’s nothing quite like tropical oatmeal made with plenty of honey, cinnamon and vanilla. The texture is soupy, but not terrible. If you’re health conscious, it provided the only source of whole grains that I can remember.

            Darling Hubby and I are on the adventurous side. At first, we were overwhelmed by the possibilities. After a day or two, we gravitated to certain sections of the buffet. I love fresh seafood and discovered a new favourite: Grouper! Who knew that those large, ugly fish would clean up so well?

            Let’s see if I can remember all the different sections from the buffet: Japanese, Mexican, vegetarian, an entire counter of assorted bread and rolls, soup (both hot and cold), salad, omelettes to order, desserts, fruit drinks…Nope, I can’t. But you get the picture. How about if I just mention some of our favourites?

            We loved the cold drinks. They had papaya, pineapple, mango and melon water. I have no idea how they made these beverages, which were tasty and refreshing without being at all sugary. For breakfast they had pitchers of “milkshakes”, which were actually smoothies, but still oh so yummy.

            Most days, my meals included some authentic Mexican food: flat breads, quesadillas, beans with rice, and sauces/salsas as cool or as hot as you can handle. Mexican cheese is wonderfully smooth and creamy, so remember to look for it in the salad section.   

            If you’re there in the rainy season, you might find that it’s too humid for the salt shaker to work. Just unscrew the lid and sprinkle.

             While some buffet selections were a surprise, only two things proved to be a huge disappointment. Both the panna cotta, which I’ve only heard about on the Food Network, and the fresh melons were surprisingly bland. But don’t despair if you have a sweet tooth. There were lots of cakes, tortes, ice cream and sorbet. The pastries were presented in small portions, so you could try a selection. I was so pleased when we got home to discover that I’d only gained half a pound. Miraculous!

            Speaking of sweets, the desserts at the restaurants were excellent. We qualified for eight à la carte meals during our stay. Make your dinner reservations as soon after your arrival as possible. Ask about them when you check in. They fill up rapidly, so you might find yourself dining later than you are accustomed to eating. The food is well worth the wait.

            We met a wonderful Canadian couple at the restaurants. Paul and Sandra were a lot of fun to hang around with. They introduced us to Spanish coffee, made with cream and some sort of brandy or liqueur. What a great presentation! Our waiter performed the ritual with finesse and panache, ending with a two-tiered blazing stream that cascaded from both pitchers into the coffee cup below. Even if you’re not a coffee drinker (or not fond of alcohol, which burns off during the performance), maybe you can convince someone else at your table to order this. The show alone is worth it.

            So there you go. If you’ve been putting off a trip to Mexico because you don’t think you’ll like the food, think again. The Gran Bahia truly has something for everyone. 

            

Dorothy, esto no es kansas - Dorothy, This Ain't Kansas No More

            So what is Mexico like, besides hot? Mexico is sort of like The Wizard of Oz.  

            Remember that part in the movie when Dorothy gets to Oz and everything switches from black and white to color? Mexico is outrageously colourful. The Caribbean looks green, not like the cold, grey waters off the coast of Vancouver. Visiting the market is like stepping into someone’s paint box. The buildings there are bright aqua, orange and yellow. Most of the artists aren’t into realism, unless you're accustomed to seeing flowered pigs, blue cats and pink turtles everywhere. In that case, I’m cutting off your Tequila.

            There are no Munchkins in Mexico, but I was as tall as many of the Mexican men, and I’m the shrimp in our family. Most of the women are small and dainty. Like the transformed Grinch, their hearts seem ten times bigger than normal. Be prepared to be made welcome.     

            Did I find a scarecrow or a tin man in our tropical Oz? Well, we met a few guests who seemed to have misplaced their brains. Our cowardly lion was a young traveller on his own who was so afraid of being lonely that he remained staggeringly hammered. When I saw a waiter being stripped of his dignity by irate guests, I did my best to restore his courage. Granny to the rescue! How? By using my meager Spanish to enter a realm in which he was the expert, and by treating him like a person as worthy of respect as anyone else. Maybe I don’t have enough brains, heart or courage to go around, but I never want to be one of those gringos. 

            There are no winged monkeys who will toss you around the GB for the fun of it. Instead, there are buffet waiters vying to get you into their section. They’re every bit as mischievous as the monkeys, but they’ll pour you endless café con leches without spilling a drop. 

            Dorothy was overwhelmed when the Munchkins expected her to take out the Wicked Witch of the West. I felt the same when a few vendors expected me to vanquish poverty by purchasing something every time I paused in front of their stall. The truth is that I love giving presents. I was just as inconsolable as they were that I couldn’t buy more. Silly flight weight restrictions.

            Also, there was some expectation that we would make a financial impact by buying into the GB’s time share or preferred guest program. The gentleman who continually brought up the subject with us wasn’t unpleasant, but our constant refusal gave him a perpetually disappointed expression. There are no sadder eyes than big brown Mexican ones. He totally put Shrek’s Puss-in-Boots to shame.   

            Instead of a yellow brick road, we found cobbled streets everywhere in the Gran Bahia. It’s hard to imagine all the labour that went into that project, especially with the heat.

            Mexico is wonderful. But just as I don’t want to fall asleep forever in the enchanted poppy fields, I find myself echoing Dorothy’s words: “There’s no place like home.” Click, click, click.     

            On a serious note, here are a few things that you might find helpful.

            Rooms: The grounds, lobbies and restaurants at the Gran Bahia are definitely 5 star. The rooms are, IMHO, 3 star, at least the ones in Tulum. More experienced travellers tell me that this is the norm in the tropics, unless you have mega bucks to spend. Our room was comfy and clean, with marble floors and counters. Except for the leak during the rain, it was comparable to what we expect when we book a hotel in Canada, if somewhat dated. It’s like being on a cruise. Remember how little time you expect to spend inside those four walls.

            The housekeeping staff folds towels and pillowcases into a wonderful variety of cloth Origami figures, which they place on your bed after they make it. Although the GB is all-inclusive, we had decided to tip the housekeeping staff. We’d brought little thank you notes in Spanish to thank them. On the day that our housekeeper found out that it was our anniversary, he festooned our room with red Hibiscus flowers. You’ve never been welcomed until you’ve been welcomed in Mexico.

            The patio doors have dark shutters to keep the morning sun out. If you leave the doors open, you’ll get a nice breeze blowing through. You might also get a gecko dropping in. We didn’t, but we were on the third floor. Insects don’t seem to be enough of an issue for them to provide screens.

            There are no elevators in the Tulum's rooms. Either the first floor rooms are accessible or they have special accommodations elsewhere, because we saw more than one guest with a wheelchair. I’d hate to have to navigate one in that tiny bathroom.

            Bathrooms: These are called los baños. My favourite one was by the lobby, because it had an automatic flush. On our snorkelling excursions, we were expected to refrain from flushing any toilet paper. The facilities included a bin in the corner of the stall for that purpose. Be prepared.

            Vacation Representative: Our trip was a SunQuest package. You’ll probably be given an appointment to meet your rep shortly after your arrival. Do it. The reps aren’t GB employees, so their advice is more knowledgeable than biased. Ask them anything you need to know. Our rep was Renan, who gave us invaluable tips about what to expect: Which ATM charged the lowest fees. Where to go shopping. How to take local transit to the city. We booked our excursions through him and were not disappointed.    

            Renan assured us that the GB purifies the water they serve their guests. Our travel agent had said the same thing. So we did what everyone else warned us against – we drank the water! I used bottled water to brush my teeth. Neither of us suffered any ill effects.

            WiFi: We expected to find a business center that provided a computer for our use. There isn’t one. Our upgrade offered us the choice of two old laptops at the Diamond Club reception area. They worked, but seemed to be in perpetual siesta mode. Remember how the whales talked ultra slowly in Finding Nemo? These laptops make those whales look like Speedy Gonzales. We were able to check our emails and FaceBook. Eventually. Our advice? Bring your own device to use with the Wifi in the main lobby area. If you do need to use el senor laptop, his @ key is in a different place on the keyboard from where you'd expect. If you can't find it, ask one of the staff at the counter. They're very patient about reconnecting the computer to the internet.

            Beaches: We were in the water a lot, so we left our things parked on the beach lounge chairs under the thatched umbrellas. Everyone reserves their chairs by simply placing a towel or other item on them. Our belongings were never disturbed.

            Unless you’re a Hobbit, take water shoes. (We got ours from Atmosphere, which were far better quality than the ones in Wal-Mart.) In most places, there are a few rocks you’ll need to cross before the water gets deep enough for swimming. If you want to walk along the mile or so of beach, you won’t need shoes until you get to the extreme south end of the resort.

            TV: Most of the channels are in Spanish, but there were a few American ones. Some have English movies with dubbed in Spanish and English subtitles. Shrek is just as much fun to watch in Spanish      

            Thanks for reading. In my next post, I’ll tell you about the resort food. Es muy delicioso!         

Primeras Impresiones - First Impressions

            Our first impression of Mexico was of the glorious heat. As soon as we stepped outside the airport, boom! It felt like being a piñata at the sun’s birthday party. If you visit Mexico, be prepared for the intensity of the tropics. Imagine opening a 400˚F oven while bending over it. Yup, that’s pretty close.

            Anytime that we walked outdoors, we had to do the celebrity thing and hide beneath hats and sunglasses. I’ve never had so many requests for autographs in my life, LOL. Since we expected to spend a lot of time in the water, we were pretty stoked, especially as we’d arrived at the end of the rainy season.

            Ah, the much-debated rainy season. You should research it before you book your vacation. We had been told that if it rained, it wouldn’t last more than an hour or so. We heard that Mexico still feels warm during the rain, and that the weather wouldn’t hamper our activities. Was this true? Yes and no.

            During our first week, we had two hours of rain. Once the sun re-appeared, everything returned to oven mode. We resumed our faux celebrity status with hats and Ray-Bans, and were rapidly surrounded by adoring fans (Just kidding). Sunbathers quickly claimed all the beach loungers, while iguanas assumed their languid posturing on the walkways.   

            Our second week was somewhat different. We had two rainy days of intermittent showers. No longer did we wonder about the large umbrella we had found in our closet. The trams, sheathed in heavy plastic, still carted guests around the resort. Staff members manned their long floor squeegees with aplomb. Iguanas stayed out of sight, undoubtedly sipping hot cocoa while watching old episodes of Jeopardy.

             Why would anyone visit Mexico during the rainy season? For the same reason that people eat ice cream in the winter: it is still a delicious escape from normal. If you travel there in October, plan to include activities that don’t depend on the sunshine. You can read, shop, visit the spa, enjoy leisurely meals, and be glad for each minute away from your normal 9-5 grind.

            Our second week included two rainy days, as well as an electrical storm one night. We didn’t hear the thunder much over the wind. At that point, I remembered that we were technically in hurricane season. Hmmm, should I wake Darling Hubby now, or wait until the last minute? What if this was our last minute. I wasn't really scared, just intrigued. After all, none of the palm trees had jack-knifed. Yet.  Still, their frenzied fronds could have whipped up enough froth for the entire resort to have lattes for breakfast. 

            Next morning, I asked the fellow in reception if he had slept through the storm. He acknowledged that we’d had a “strong rain.” Too funny. Isn’t that like calling the Rocky Mountains a mild increase in elevation? 

           Enough water had seeped beneath our door to make the marble floor hazardous. It showed no sign of stopping, so they moved us to another building. This one was identical to the first but with a few advantages: 

1) We now had the most gorgeous ocean view imaginable from our new room. Spectacular!!! 

2) We were now directly across from the buffet. 

3) The new A/C unit worked better.          

            Air conditioning in Mexico is a study in relativity. We are accustomed to sleeping at temperatures blow 20˚C year round. Our hotel room never got quite that cool, but the ceiling fan provided enough air movement to keep us comfy. As soon as we stepped outside our room, we realized how cool it actually was. I’m sure our housekeepers shook their heads at the crazy Canadians who kept their room like the inside of a meat locker.   

            Besides the heat, we had to make adjustments for the humidity. They say that if you’re from the Calgary area, everywhere else feels sticky. Well, we are and it does. Most of the time, the ocean breeze refreshes you like nothing else. If you’re going to be in the water, the humidity doesn’t matter. The main thing we found was that when we hung up our wet swimsuits to dry, they took longer than we had expected. They did slightly better on the balcony than over the tub.  

            We had brought along some detergent with which to rinse out some socks and undies, since there was no coin laundry at the GB. That was our plan. Once there, we found that socks were redundant, except for wearing home to chilly Alberta. Because we were on the third floor, our damp undies were obscured from view. As far as I know, none of them blew off the balcony. But if you hear rumours of iguanas and parrots being sighted in Fruit of the Loom, you’ll know.        

            On that note, while most prices seemed reasonable at the GB, the cost of laundering seemed exorbitant to us. Since all laundry services include ironing, I wasn’t about to engage in a bilingual request to opt out of having my foundational garments ironed. So either take enough for the whole of your stay, or festoon your balcony with them. And if you take only red ones, they will blend in perfectly with the Hibiscus flowers!

            The brief rainy period did nothing to hinder my shopping experience. Since I couldn’t be in the ocean, I was pleased to run off to the shopping district. The GB has its own little market, which I will describe in a separate post. The outdoor stalls had awnings over them, but it was still a little drippy in places. I felt very safe leaving Darling Hubby’s side for a couple of hours. The rain wasn’t pouring heavily the whole day, so it wasn’t the dreary time it might have been at home. Also, most of the second week was less intensely hot, so we shed our celebrity accessories and bid adios to our 15 minutes of fame.   

            For the most part, Mexico provided us with perfect beach conditions. Except for certain older ladies who liked to sun random portions of their bodies without warning. Trust me ladies, your exposure failed to enhance the otherwise idyllic Caribbean ambience. I hope you didn’t go home to find your experience immortalized on FaceBook. Or if you did, I wasn’t the culprit. I was too busy watching the iguanas stalking their prey across the sand. Once you’ve seen how fast they can move, you might change your mind about where you’d risk having one land on your person. I’m just saying…   

            The Gran Bahia resort is huge, bordered by a mile of beach and sea green Caribbean. Tulum is the oldest section with the most private beach. Akumal had the most fish to see when we snorkelled. Coba is the newest, but also the furthest from the beach. Plus, the sand there had a lot of coral bits in it. So each section has pros and cons, but you have access to everything no matter where on the resort you stay. It’s almost like parking at the mall. You can be close to the food court or close to Target, but not both.      

           Our main goal in coming to Mexico was to enjoy some snorkelling. I saw more fish at the GB than I did on our two snorkelling excursions. For a beginner, it was pretty awesome. The water is clear and not too weedy. We even ventured out beyond the floats and the manmade barriers without it getting much over our heads.

            In my next post, I’ll go into more detail about the resort and our rooms. I still have lots of memories to share with you J          

            Parting thought: If you can’t tolerate the heat but you don’t like to be in the water either, maybe you should go to Milwaukee. At least there they have cable channels in English.